Kumano Kodo Nakahechi Route Itinerary — April to May 2024

Enlik Lee
3 min readMay 21, 2024


Repost from my itinerary sharing in the FB group

I just finished Kumano Kodo from 29 April — 5 May 2024, and it was one of the most peaceful experiences I’ve ever had ✨
I feel blessed with a fit health, nice weather, and good encounter with strangers that somehow became friends 🥰

source: https://www.tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo/nakahechi/

My itinerary:
Day 1 — Tanabe
JR train from Osaka to Kii-Tanabe station.
Get the Kumano passport and some hiking guides from Tanabe Tourist Information Centre (near station).
Make sure to buy some food and snacks to eat along the hike/walk, as supermarket in the next stop, Chikatsuyu, is closing on 6pm.
Stay overnight in Tanabe (Guesthouse Kumano, via booking.com).

Day 2 — Chikatsuyu
Taking bus from Tanabe to Takijiri-Oji.
Walking and hiking ~14km from Takijiri-oji to Chikatsuyu (a lot of climbing up in this walk).
Stay overnight in Chikatsuyu (Minshuku Nakano, via Kumano official booking system).

Day 3 — Hongu
I decided to use luggage delivery service informed by guesthouse host. (check 3rd photo for fee and contact details)
Walking and hiking ~28km from Chikatsuyu to Hongu (full rainy day, so be careful of leeches around).
Stay overnight in Hongu (Kumano Backpacker, via booking.com).

Day 4 — Hongu / Shingu / Nachi-katsuura
Get the dual pilgrim certificate from Hongu Tourist Information Centre.
Do the taiko (drum) ritual at Kumano Hongu Taisha.
Take a bus to Yunomine Onsen, boiling egg there, you can buy the egg from shop nearby.
Take a bus to Wakayu Onsen, trying the free public hot spring near river side (Senninburo).
Take a bus to Shingu, visiting Kumano Hayatama Taisha.
Take a train to Kii-Katsuura station.
Stay overnight in Minshuku Wakatake (via Kumano official booking system)

Day 5 — Nachi-katsuura
Take the bus from Kii-Katsuura station to Nachisan
Explore Kumano Nachi Taisha, Seiganto-ji, 3-Stories Pagoda, and Nachi Waterfall.
Do short walk ~8km going down to Daimonzaka and some nearby area, and then taking bus from nearby bus stop back to Kii-Katsuura station.
Take the bus to go back to Kii-Katsuura station.
Stay overnight in Guesthouse Munehouse (via booking.com)

Day 6 — Leaving to Kyoto
Take a train to Kyoto to enjoy the amazing view of Japan country side (Kisei Line from Kii-Katsuura station to Matsusaka Station, famous for its green tea, and then Kintetsu Limited Express from Matsusaka Station to Kyoto Station).
Koyasan seems a good alternative, but I can’t find a good schedule to get there.

I was grateful that I took the ‘rest day’ from hiking after day 2 to Hongu, and it was nice to explore Hongu and some nearby onsen a bit more, gave me an opportunity to stay at both Yunomine & Kawayu Onsen.

Good luck for the kumano kodo planning and ‘Buen Kumano’ 😁

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Enlik Lee

Lifelong learner, explorer, podcaster. I write in English and Indonesian. Homepage: enlik.tech